‘Every Cook Ought to Learn Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.

Jason Smith
Jason Smith

Gaming enthusiast and tech reviewer with a passion for esports and community events.